Theguardian iconTheguardianSep 3, 2026

The place that never freezes: the Arctic habitat where global heating threatens more ice, not less

Grise Fiord in Nunavut, a hamlet of 144 people closer to Murmansk in Russia than the Canadian city of Toronto. The bay's cliffs loom higher and higher like stone icebergs as he approaches his destination across the bay.

The place that never freezes: the Arctic habitat where global heating threatens more ice, not less

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Grise Fiord in Nunavut, a hamlet of 144 people closer to Murmansk in Russia than the Canadian city of Toronto.

The bay's cliffs loom higher and higher like stone icebergs as he approaches his destination across the bay.

Noah pulls his sled carefully over a seal's breathing hole, about the circumference of a basketball.

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Grise Fiord in Nunavut, a hamlet of 144 people closer to Murmansk in Russia than the Canadian city of Toronto. The bay's cliffs loom higher and higher like stone icebergs as he approaches his destination across the bay. Noah pulls his sled carefully over a seal's breathing hole, about the circumference of a basketball.

How it works

  • Using a custom-made winch, he lowers a submersible instrument into the sea below the ice.

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