How the J.M. Weston 180 exposes what shoe fit really means

The useful part

It really is a thing, and it tells us some interesting things about shoe fit in general. Even though most shoe companies have several lasts, they usually have similar ideas of relative proportion and sizing, so customers are picking between styles rather than approaches to fit and are a similar size in all of them. Second, these old shoes are generally wide and round, with a high wall at the front.

How it works

• This is a style often associated with Ivy-style shoes, like Weejuns, although look at a Weejun in profile and you can see how much higher the 180 is.
• The work boot and 4×4 have been comfortable but had to sell my golf because again I chose the wrong size.
• Trousers can be abit short / long/ tight etc and can be altered Likewise for every type of clothing but shoes will cripple you if they're not right.
• Most shoe manufactures sell the style, the leather etc followed by a puzzling number giving a hint of size and shaping to a befuddled consumer!
• Most shops don't bother with or discourage foot measures and 'encourage' "how does it feel to you?" Philosophy.

What to take from it

Well, Lucas and I spent a happy hour in the Jermyn Street store trying on every size and width combination (happy, at least in part, because there was a heat wave outside and the shop has very good air conditioning). Because of the difference, he can go down a whole size (possibly even a size and a half) while I only go down a half size. This is the problem with every comparison online of what size you wear in one shoe, and what you should therefore wear in another.

Example or evidence

• As if you need one more thing to mess with your mind, widths are relative but lengths absolute.
• Those things combine to give your toes a lot of room, and the potential to stretch out a little more width-wise if needed.
• Most shoes slope downwards at the front, reducing the amount of room for your toes.
• When the front slopes downwards less, and in fact is higher overall, you don't need to do this and can take a smaller size.

Details worth keeping

A recent visit to the Weston store opened my eyes, however. That doesn't apply to the 180 or the Golf derby-style in the Weston range. The high 'wall' in particular is worth focusing on.

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