Rome’s new trattorias: how a new generation is reinventing a beloved culinary institution
Rome's neo-trattoria movement is transforming the city's dining scene. Across rioni and quartieri such as Testaccio, Ostiense, San Lorenzo and Appio-Latino a new generation of chefs is reinventing the traditional Roman trattoria — the kind of unglamorous neighbourhood spots Bourdain went looking for on Rome's outer edges — as something more upmarket and contemporary using…