Oxfordstudent iconOxfordstudentSep 17, 2026 ~7 min source read

Tradition and modernity, black-tied

A student reflects on Oxford formalwear debates: what formal dinners promise about belonging, where that promise fails in practice, and how ‘modernisation’ is being used in conflicting ways.

Tradition and modernity, black-tied

Share this story

Send the public story page.

Useful takeaways from this story.

Formal attire is meant to create a shared social space, but clothing alone does not guarantee inclusion.

Arguments that anchor formals to monastic or historical origins can alienate some students and obscure how present-day behaviour shapes belonging.

Claims that black tie ‘equalises’ people ignore everyday, gendered microaggressions that occur at formal events.

The useful part

Tradition and modernity, black-tied – The Oxford Student The interior of the Dining Hall at Keble College, Image credit: We go home for the summer vacation speaking about Michaelmas reading lists, memories of Mayday at 6am, the Glink, the Balliol Blue, pee-and-pee, Union drama and what have you, as if the University had us in a perpetual chokehold. With one article questioning the ambiguities woven into formal attire, and another article crying "sacrilege," The Oxford Student seems to be haunted with Oxford's dinners.

How it works

  • However, if anyone feels alienated by the argument that the purpose of formal attire is to further uphold the atmosphere initiated by monks, I would want them to know they are not alone.
  • However, I am very familiar with small, subtle discriminatory acts which do make one feel like they should not have attended.
  • The aspect uniting these two voices is none other than the Oxford man's best friend: history.
  • More specifically, the communal, celebratory, and intellectual history behind this Oxford tradition.
  • I am not trying to suggest that either author is deliberately excluding groups of people by anchoring the history of formal dinners only to its monastic beginnings.

What to take from it

You finally got there because in those clothes "everybody is equal." But this does not feel quite right. The reason why I was caught so off-guard at the notion that " [f]ormal attire is a great equaliser " at Oxford is not because I believe certain groups within the student body and staff should feel out of place. You only need friends – ie, your community – whose behaviour and conversation creates a safe space for you – ie, do not make you wish to climb under the tiles of the dining hall.

Example or evidence

  • As argued in both articles, formal attire is flexible, up for interpretation, and that is exactly the magic of it.
  • The expression, appearance, and performance of that tradition should not privilege the institution's white-and male supremacist history over the brilliant minds shaping it today.
  • While I am compelled by the democratic and inclusive ideas of belonging that underlie formal dinners and their dress codes, at least according to the two aforementioned articles, I am also sceptical about...
  • There honestly is not too much about that particular period in history that I can truthfully, deeply respect.

Details worth keeping

What I did not expect is this summer's formal madness. Having read the rather non-committal argumentation of the former article – leaving space for play while also enjoying the tradition – and the nearly pearl-clutching conservatism of the latter, I felt like my two cents would make for an adequate weigh-in for such a discussion. I also understand that neither article wishes to push Oxford back to the olden days when men did not bathe, or – God forbid – when they were Catholic.

Related coverage

  • Oxfordstudent: The dress codes of Oxford, be that sub fusc, black tie or white tie, are an inescapable part of student life.
  • Omanobserver: An Indian artist waits to perform 'Theyyam', a traditional dance form of Kerala, during a cultural event in Chennai— AFP
  • Goodmenproject: — The landscape of modern menswear has undergone a quiet revolution.
  • Luxuo: Italian menswear redefines modern luxury through refined tailoring, innovative fabrics and effortless versatility.
  • Dailymail: With a membership which embraces such distinct and different characters as Stephen Fry, on one hand, and Edward Fox on the other - the Savile Club, would seem to be a pretty broad church.

More context around this story.

Formal, and rightly so
Oxfordstudent iconOxfordstudentSep 6, 2026

Formal, and rightly so

The dress codes of Oxford, be that sub fusc, black tie or white tie, are an inescapable part of student life. Amidst the whirlwind of exams, dinners and balls, they become one’s second skin, the uniform of student life that signals belonging to the university. Dress codes are a vital part of Oxford, and rightly so. The

Loading more related stories...

Keep reading in the app

Open the app view to save this story, compare related coverage, and continue from the same source.

Open in app