Tod’s SS27: an Italian attitude built on artisanal intelligence

# Overview Guests at Tod's SS27 presentation encountered artisans at work making the brand's signature leather pieces—Candy, Di and T Signature bags—and the nub-soled Gommino loafers. That setup framed designer Matteo Tamburini's direction: a collection that privileges material know-how and workmanship over ephemeral concepts.

# Materials and Craftsmanship The collection centers on tactile, luxury materials. Skirts featured front panels of Pashmy leather that were left to flap at the sides or sculpted into horizontal nappa waves. Perforation—an echo of the Gommino sole pattern—appeared across bags, knits and outerwear, creating a motif that ties accessories to apparel. Tod's also named a fabric Windsilk, a silk-and-nylon mix, used alongside leather and nappa for trench coats.

# Design Motifs and Silhouettes Rain and its effects informed several choices. Tailored knee-length shorts and fitted culottes were paired with leather and Windsilk trenches. Footwear adopted slick, rain-repellent finishes and bags included glossy, see-through options—practical touches rendered with luxury polish.

Skirt constructions showed two recurring moves: long panels at the sides with shorter centers to create movement, and later in the show, flowing silk colour-block panels cut asymmetrically to fall around the body. The collection balances movement and structure: soft, swathing leathers alongside smart tailoring.

# Key Pieces to Note

• Pashmy leather skirts with open side panels and nappa wave treatments.
• Perforated bags and tops referencing the Gommino motif.
• Trench coats in leather, nappa and Windsilk—presented as rain-capable outerwear.
• Slick, rain-repellent shoes and glossy transparent bags that emphasize weather functionality without sacrificing finish.
• Tailored suiting and V-neck bi-colour sweaters that reinforce a classic, Made-in-Italy sensibility.

# Wearability and Market Position Tamburini's offering leans toward evergreen wardrobe components rather than seasonal gimmicks. The tailored suiting, versatile outerwear and enduring accessories suggest commercial appeal to buyers seeking investment pieces. The collection's weather-oriented pieces—trench coats, treated footwear and transparent bags—add functional incentives without diluting the brand's artisanal identity.

# Takeaway Tod's SS27 reads as a materials-first exercise in maintaining brand strengths. By foregrounding craftsmanship, leather textures and functional finishes, Tamburini reframes Italian savoir-faire for everyday wear: practical shapes, refined surfaces and a recurring Gommino-inspired motif that links accessories and apparel. Jessica Michault covered the show for Emirates Woman on September 25, 2026.