Martens used Parisian atelier techniques and contrasting treatments to mix sculptural structure with draped, feminine pieces — a show that aims to make surprising combinations wearable.
Theme and set signalled the approach: a ‘Hard and Soft’ season staged against a wall of dried flowers and a herringbone runway.
Techniques collided — corset-like stiff panels and sculptural coats met softly draped satin and jersey dresses.
The palette and detailing brought playful contrasts: metallic orange daisies, pink floral skirts, an airbrushed swan gown and mixes of tuxedo jackets with denim skirts.
Glenn Martens opened his second ready-to-wear show for Maison Margiela in Paris with a clear point of departure: the season was called "Hard and Soft." The set made the idea literal — a towering wall of dried flowers behind a herringbone parquet runway — and the clothes translated that contrast into construction, fabric choices and silhouette.
The collection's silhouettes move between the sculptural and the yielding. Trench coats appear in heavy drape and in brocade versions with matching lace collars and boots. Denim and leather jackets punctuate the line, while full skirts and constructed tops create volume. The show closed with a sequence of black looks — bodysuits and sheath dresses in satin and jersey — that sharpened the contrast between restraint and fluidity.
Color and ornament introduced a sense of joy into the concept. Unexpected combinations — metallic orange daisies paired with a pink floral skirt and a green jacket — lift the collection out of pure seriousness. Martens included one-off statements too: an airbrushed swan motif on a gown, a tuxedo jacket styled with a denim skirt, black net crochet pieces, and lace-up sandals.
These details underline the practical aim of the season: to make surprising or traditionally theatrical elements feel wearable in a contemporary wardrobe.
Milan a week earlier. The two exits and entries across fashion weeks speak to an active phase for the designer, but the Maison Margiela collection keeps the stylistic curiosity he's known for. Where Diesel's work treated denim as a sculptural medium, here Martens explores how corsetry, tailoring and soft drape can coexist.
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