Haider Ackermann’s SS27 at Tom Ford: a looser, sensual take on house codes

# The show in one paragraph Haider Ackermann's spring/summer 2027 collection for Tom Ford presented at Paris Fashion Week kept the house's seductive essentials while loosening strictness in silhouette and attitude. Staged on a mirror-lined runway, the clothes read as confident and playful — precise in construction but freer in wear and exposure.

# The silhouette and tailoring Sharp tailoring continued to be the foundation of the collection. Jackets and coats appeared opened over bare skin, worn off the shoulder or draped to suggest a casualness that offsets the precision of the cuts. Pinstripe blazers carried small details such as a red rose brooch on a welt pocket. A camel double-breasted blazer was styled hanging on one shoulder, and an olive jacket was worn with high-waisted jeans, pairing Tom Ford formality with relaxed denim.

# Materials, textures and new pieces Leather was prominent across the collection: biker jackets, belted trenches and halter tops used the material to deliver both structure and sensuality. Ackermann added swimwear to the house for the first time, expanding Tom Ford's offering into a new category. Structural pieces—like a moulded rubber bustier—and cut-outs added sculptural counterpoints to silky, slippable eveningwear.

# Eveningwear and colour choices Evening looks leaned into the deep reds associated with Tom Ford's signature lipstick shade. Silky gowns slipped off one shoulder to reveal padded satin bra tops, balancing sensual exposure with precise construction. Colour appeared in unexpected ways: a powder-blue suede trench, olive zip-front jumpsuits and belted trenches diversified the palette beyond the usual black-and-red Tom Ford tropes.

# References to past eras and overall mood

# What changed under Ackermann's hand Ackermann introduced a looser attitude to Tom Ford's established language. Where the house often relies on meticulous showmanship and tight, polished silhouettes, this season allowed a little wear beneath the tailoring: jackets open on bare skin, off-shoulder draping and breezier trousers. That ease felt intentional, a way to read the brand's sex appeal with less polish and more immediacy.

# Takeaway for readers interested in wearability Expect Tom Ford SS27 pieces to feel more attainable in day-to-night scenarios: a tailored jacket could be worn with jeans, leather outerwear reads both edgy and wearable, and the introduction of swimwear signals a broader commercial direction for the house. The collection keeps seduction as a throughline but makes room for casual gestures that change how the pieces might be styled.